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Knowledge Base - How To:- Change your fuel filter.

How to change a Fuel Filter on a Rev 3 on MR2 Turbo.

Allow the engine to cool off before attempting this work. Any work you do on your own car is your responsibility. If you aren't confident then don't attempt to do the work yourself.

This work was carried out on a 1997 Rev 4 MR2 turbo; it may or may not work specifically for other year models, and as with any procedure, please read it through at least once before proceeding to actually do the work.

The owners manual/service schedule says that the fuel filter on a rev 3 on MR2 turbo should be changed at intervals of 30,000 miles.

WARNING: since you will be working with fuel, and it is extremely flammable then I would make the following suggestions:

1- have no open flame source anywhere near

2- have more than adequate ventilation

3- use a safety drop light

4- have a fire extinguisher very near by

5- use a lot of common sense

Total time required for this filter change, about ½ to 1 hour.

Tools Used:
1/2 drive socket wrench.
1/4 socket drive.
12 inch ½" drive extension.
6 inch ½" drive extension.
17mm socket ½" drive.
10mm socket ¼" drive NOTE: you could use an open end or box wrench.
Fuel line/brake line clamp (£5 from local motor factors a pair of small vice grips would work also.)
Stock car jack or trolley jack (axle stands are a good idea when crawling under the car)
Torque wrench that goes to at least 22 ft lbs.
Something to catch the fuel in (I use a cat litter tray - 60p from Asda for all kinds of things like oil changes etc.)
Inspection light.

Parts Purchased:

Fuel filter: Cost: just under £30.00 (included four copper washers.)

WARNING: under any conditions, make sure that you have more than sufficient ventilation.

Jack up the rear of the car at the gearbox/air filter side. Jack up the car sufficient so that you can easily slide in and out of under the car between the tyre and the jack. It makes life easier to break loose the top screw on the old fuel filter before jacking up the car. It's not too difficult though, to reach back down into the engine compartment to do this, with the car jacked up.

Using the 1/2 drive ratchet handle, the ½" 17mm socket plus both extensions, the 12 inch and the 6 inch, unless you have a 18 inch extension all in one piece, reach down into the engine compartment, between the resonator box and the air filter box and break loose the top fuel line screw on the filter. After breaking the screw loose then you can either reach down with your right or left hand and unscrew it all the way out (only if you don't have the stock air filter fitted), or you can easily slide under the car and reach the top fuel line screw and remove it from under the car.

Once removed then check that the two old seals (aluminium or copper rings) are off the fitting, if they are stuck on, carefully prise it off the banjo bolt, making sure you don't damage the face of the bolt. Clean the bolt and set it aside. Note: do not use the old seals there should be four new ones in the fuel filter kit. Take your lockable pipe clamp or a small pair of vice grips will do, slide under the car and clamp off the lower fuel line in the short section just before the line gets to the bottom connector of the fuel filter.

At this point you may want to wrap a rag around the fuel line to keep fuel from running down the line and up under the shield cover.

Take your ratchet and 17mm socket and 6 inch drive extension, and slide under the car and break loose the bottom banjo bolt on the fuel filter. Just break it loose at this point unless you want a lot of fuel running up your sleeve, or in your face. Now slide out far enough to get out of the way and with your pan or what ever you want to catch the fuel in start unscrewing the bottom banjo bolt all the way out. There won't be too much fuel, just what is in the filter mainly. Let it drain until it stops dripping and in the mean time clean the bottom banjo bolt and set it aside.

Loosen the two smaller screws that hold the fuel filter in place. The fuel should have stopped dripping. Take your 10mm socket and 1/4 inch drive ratchet, slide under the car until your head is about even with the end of the transaxle. You will be able to reach up and loosen the left screw and then reposition yourself and loosen and remove the right screw. Tilt the filter over on its side and remove it. Remove the mounting bracket from the filter and fit it to the new filter unit.

To install the new fuel filter. Locate your new filter and the two holding screws and position the fuel filter in place and screw in the screw nearest to the front of the car finger tight, and then screw in the rear screw and turn it down finger tight. Now using your 10mm socket and 1/4 drive with no extension, tighten the two screws tight.

Fit a new copper/aluminium seal to the banjo bolt slip it into the banjo connector and fit a new seal between the fitting/bolt and the filter and screw it in finger tight. Now locate your 17mm socket, 6 inch drive extension and your torque wrench, make sure it is set to 22 ft lbs and proceed to torque the fuel line banjo bolts in place. The top one, you might find it just a little harder, but it was fairly easy to reach from under the car. I found it easier to torque the top banjo bolt in place from leaning over the side of the car looking down into the engine compartment rather than from underneath the car, there really isn't the room. Using your 18” extension, the 17mm socket and your torque wrench, and lower this assembly down to the top fuel line banjo bolt and torque it down to 22 ft. lbs. Slide under the car and remove the clamp on the lower fuel line. Dispose of the drained fuel. Remove all of your tools from under the car. Lower the car down off the jack. Check for leaks and re-pressurize the fuel line: Put the key into the ignition and turn it all the way over until the ignition lights come on, but do not try to start the car. Give the system a minute to re-pressurize the fuel line and fill up the new filter. Check for leaks, if you find one then quickly shut off the ignition and find out what the problem is and fix it. If there are no leaks you are ready to start the car. Start the car and check that it is running normally at idle. When starting the first time, it'll crank over for a while until the air that got into the system is forced through the injectors.

 

Stef Derner
21-04-2006
 

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Created : 2011-09-09 12:07:10, Last Modified : 2011-09-09 12:07:10

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