Clutch Judder
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Many subjects will have been discussed before. Please try the search function before starting a new thread.
Check in the Know Your 2 as the information you need may already be there.
Important ! - Please make your topic title as descriptive as possible . titles with just "help" generally dont get as many answers as a title that points to the problem
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Topic author
Clutch Judder
Hi guys
My rev 2 3sge's been laid up in my garage for the last 3 months while I been restoring & respraying it.... it's been started and moved around a few times in that time, but now it's all finished the clutch judders when I pull away in 1st the clutch was replaced with a borg and beck one and since done 60k on it, on the odd occasion it violently judders when i pull away on a cold engine but is once in a blue moon, but since Ive had it off the road it does it all the time now, I'm just wondering if all the dust that I been creating plus spraying over the last 3 months has some how managed to get in the bell housing, someone suggested it may be glazed off because of the dust and heating it up with a spirited drive might help... not so sure though
My rev 2 3sge's been laid up in my garage for the last 3 months while I been restoring & respraying it.... it's been started and moved around a few times in that time, but now it's all finished the clutch judders when I pull away in 1st the clutch was replaced with a borg and beck one and since done 60k on it, on the odd occasion it violently judders when i pull away on a cold engine but is once in a blue moon, but since Ive had it off the road it does it all the time now, I'm just wondering if all the dust that I been creating plus spraying over the last 3 months has some how managed to get in the bell housing, someone suggested it may be glazed off because of the dust and heating it up with a spirited drive might help... not so sure though
Last edited by Jesse4Pink on 03/12/14 19:50, edited 1 time in total.
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Topic author
Re: Clutch Judder
Yours doesn't sound that bad. My clutch is brand new and judders badly when pulling away, old clutch did too and I have to use a bit of throttle to pull away, just trying to lift the clutch slowly it'll stall.
I just assumed this was normal due to the weight on the drive wheels?
I just assumed this was normal due to the weight on the drive wheels?
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Re: Clutch Judder
Is a little clutch judder normal when pulling away in first ? .I got a mr2 turbo with a new clutch fitted a year ago it now has 6000 miles on it
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Re: Clutch Judder
A few things can cause clutch judder:
Rusty flywheel/pressure plate surfaces can cause the clutch to snatch and then you get the classic kangaroo-ing effect as the front/back engine mounts take up the slack. If you slip the clutch just a little to get some friction/heat into it this will often cure this...but be careful you don't overheat the clutch plate, you only need to scuff off the rust!
Some looseness in the transmission due to wear can cause the drive to 'slap' as you take off, particularly if your engine mounts are a bit soft.
Which leads me on the the third potential cuase... soft engine mounts. The original engine mounts are all going to be over 20 years old by now and they do deteriorate with age and use so will be much less stiff then they were when new. This isn't so much of a problem for the left and right ones, but the front and back mounts take the majority of the power when you accelerate - the engine pushes down on the front mount and pulls up on the back one - so if these are soft you can get quite a lot of engine movement. Replacing both mounts with polybush units will make a huge difference to the taughtness of the drive, but at the expense of quite a lot more cabin noise. Replacing just the rear one will give a marked improvement and only slightly increase cabin vibration.
Also, engine tune and cold-enrichment can also affect the performance when pulling away..
Just some ideas - hope it helps.
Cheers,
Graham
Rusty flywheel/pressure plate surfaces can cause the clutch to snatch and then you get the classic kangaroo-ing effect as the front/back engine mounts take up the slack. If you slip the clutch just a little to get some friction/heat into it this will often cure this...but be careful you don't overheat the clutch plate, you only need to scuff off the rust!
Some looseness in the transmission due to wear can cause the drive to 'slap' as you take off, particularly if your engine mounts are a bit soft.
Which leads me on the the third potential cuase... soft engine mounts. The original engine mounts are all going to be over 20 years old by now and they do deteriorate with age and use so will be much less stiff then they were when new. This isn't so much of a problem for the left and right ones, but the front and back mounts take the majority of the power when you accelerate - the engine pushes down on the front mount and pulls up on the back one - so if these are soft you can get quite a lot of engine movement. Replacing both mounts with polybush units will make a huge difference to the taughtness of the drive, but at the expense of quite a lot more cabin noise. Replacing just the rear one will give a marked improvement and only slightly increase cabin vibration.
Also, engine tune and cold-enrichment can also affect the performance when pulling away..
Just some ideas - hope it helps.
Cheers,
Graham