Rev. 1 Suspension Geometry

[Lindy1]

I may be posting this in the wrong place and am happy to take guidance if that's the case, but I'm after some information regarding the Mk. 2 Rev. 1 specifics. I've got a 1990 Rev. 1 Coupe (seemingly the only one in the country without a boot spoiler!) - chassis number in the 23000s - and my other half and I are slowly restoring her to as near original condition as we can. From our research, the Rev. 1 had 'issues' with the handling if you got carried away and, for the Rev. 2, the suspension geometry was changed and 15" wheels were added, as well as revised torsion bars and strengthened anti-roll bars. Ours has already got 15" wheels and we are wondering if she might have also had a suspension upgrade, but don't know how to find out. Is there anyone out there who could explain how we can check if our baby is a genuine Rev. 1 or if she's had any little tweaks or upgrades?

Any and all assistance gratefully received.

Lindy1 (Somerset)

P.S. Thoroughly enjoyed seeing all your toys at Japfest...shame we had to leave ours in the car park

[d-peg]

Hello Lindy,

Believe me, there are plenty out there without the rear spoiler.This was the base model with the 3S-FE engine and ~120hp.

It's a fairly straight-forward difference and I would not worry too much about handling. Some of the rev1 stories are tantamount scaremongering! Basically on rev2+ they made the handling more predictable at the limit. As for visual differences you can see with the suspensions (easily) you need to be under the car.

The rear subframe differences...

(rev1 top, rev2+ bottom)


You can see from the picture the rear track control arms are much longer on the rev2+

Front suspension differences...
(struggling with a decent image here...)

If you look at this as a general rev2+ layout - assuming that the strut rod would be a one piece affair with a rubber bush on the end. Importantly where the trailing arm connects to the strut rod is bolted. On a rev1 this is adjustable (which a lot of people prefer)... Much the same way as the rear suspension components bolt together.

Like the below tech drawing


I'm hoping someone can find better pics than I!

Hope this helps.

[Lindy1]

Thanks, Dan - that's great! I'm thinking we may need to have her up on the ramps one evening this week and see what she's got. It might be my IT, but the rear subframe shot hasn't come through. I'm guessing that if the front end matches the picture and has an adjustable strut on the lower arm, then the rear should match - fingers crossed. And thanks for the rapid response - much appreciated.

Lindy1

[d-peg]

Didn't work on mine either! Fixed now

[stuMR2lee]

Edit: irrelevant now!

[Lindy1]

Brilliant! I can see them all now - many thanks, Dan. And the differences seem pretty obvious. If I get any more problems, I'll let you know, but hopefully that'll help us to work it out.

Really appreciate your help,

Lindy1

[MR2DI4]

Great informative post Dan.

Wouldn't panic about the Rev 1 suspension, just fit really good tyres to the 15" rims (getting harder to find) and you will be fine on 120Hp. Basically mine on 15" rims and twice the horsepower is still fine, its about knowing the limits of the car and these are pretty hard to find on the road with a good set-up, you do however discover them at a track if you drive it exceptionally hard.

[Howlin_Mad]

Wouldn't panic about the Rev 1 suspension, just fit really good tyres to the 15" rims (getting harder to find) and you will be fine on 120Hp. Basically mine on 15" rims and twice the horsepower is still fine, its about knowing the limits of the car and these are pretty hard to find on the road with a good set-up, you do however discover them at a track if you drive it exceptionally hard.

Try a Rev 3 turbo on 1.15bar boost on high gain on a Rev 1 rear subframe

HM

[MR2DI4]

Even with 300Hp plus I would only look at changing the wheels to enable lower profile tyres to be used to improve the grip. Stock 15" rims with Toyo RE888's are no problem with only 245Hp.

[_Al_]

Only thing I can think to add is the top mounts on the rev 1 were the "offset" type. Can't remember the exact terminology.

To check those open the frunk and take a look at where the tops of the dampers come through the bulkhead. There should be some small black "pop off" caps. If those are in the centre of the top mount you have rev 2+, if they're offset toward the front of the car then it's rev 1.