Rear brake disc and pad change

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MR2DI4
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by MR2DI4 » 16/09/17 16:53

The inside pad should always wear out first, in fact the inside pad is usually metal to metal and the outside pad is about 2/3 to 3/4 worn out, thats how I toasted my first set of rear rotors you look in there and there is "Plenty of pads" but you cannot see the inside pad as easily. It wears out first because its a smaller pad than the outside.

Any grease is better than no grease as long as its sliding.

Also check the handbrake cables are fully releasing. The cables cease solid when the inner cable breaks some strands and fish hooks the outer. There is near zero friction on a new set of cables and you will notice there should be a rubber gatter at the end of them that just perishes away and water and dust goues up the cable without it.

The rear brakes on the MK2 need a complete overhaul to get them working as they should for the next 15 years.




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mr2_maverick
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by mr2_maverick » 16/09/17 17:13

MR2DI4 wrote:
16/09/17 16:53
The inside pad should always wear out first, in fact the inside pad is usually metal to metal and the outside pad is about 2/3 to 3/4 worn out, thats how I toasted my first set of rear rotors you look in there and there is "Plenty of pads" but you cannot see the inside pad as easily. It wears out first because its a smaller pad than the outside.

Any grease is better than no grease as long as its sliding.

Also check the handbrake cables are fully releasing. The cables cease solid when the inner cable breaks some strands and fish hooks the outer. There is near zero friction on a new set of cables and you will notice there should be a rubber gatter at the end of them that just perishes away and water and dust goues up the cable without it.

The rear brakes on the MK2 need a complete overhaul to get them working as they should for the next 15 years.
The inside of the disc is wearing out fine. My issue is on the same side of the disc, half the disc near the hub is not getting swept whereas the other half towards the edge of the disc is getting swept. So basically I seem to be getting half the contact.

How do I test if the handbrake brake is releasing properly? My handbrake works fine and there isn't any odd or uneven resistance when pulling or releasing it.

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peteV6R5
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by peteV6R5 » 16/09/17 23:54

mr2_maverick wrote:
16/09/17 17:13
MR2DI4 wrote:
16/09/17 16:53
The inside pad should always wear out first, in fact the inside pad is usually metal to metal and the outside pad is about 2/3 to 3/4 worn out, thats how I toasted my first set of rear rotors you look in there and there is "Plenty of pads" but you cannot see the inside pad as easily. It wears out first because its a smaller pad than the outside.

Any grease is better than no grease as long as its sliding.

Also check the handbrake cables are fully releasing. The cables cease solid when the inner cable breaks some strands and fish hooks the outer. There is near zero friction on a new set of cables and you will notice there should be a rubber gatter at the end of them that just perishes away and water and dust goues up the cable without it.

The rear brakes on the MK2 need a complete overhaul to get them working as they should for the next 15 years.
The inside of the disc is wearing out fine. My issue is on the same side of the disc, half the disc near the hub is not getting swept whereas the other half towards the edge of the disc is getting swept. So basically I seem to be getting half the contact.

How do I test if the handbrake brake is releasing properly? My handbrake works fine and there isn't any odd or uneven resistance when pulling or releasing it.
I think you have not located the pad spiggot into caliper piston, thus allowing the pad to rock slightly.

that is if I read it right. same side of disc but near hub is not swept, away from the hub and near the edge is swept (clean)
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by TonyleFrog » 17/09/17 1:11

mr2_maverick wrote:
16/09/17 14:25
I have copper grease with me at the moment, is it worth putting this on the pins or do I need to get brake/lithium grease?
See below
MR2DI4 wrote:
16/09/17 16:53
Any grease is better than no grease as long as its sliding.
Trite answer. ;)

OP, on no account use copper grease for the sliders. :no:
The indispensable tool of el-cheapo spanner monkeys .
It's one of the major contributing factors for the sliders becoming stuck in the first place.
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/160721.html

This is the product mentioned by stuMR2lee in the above link.
It's formulated specifically for the job.
Image
You'll notice from the spec sheet that one of the ingredients is PTFE
Polytetrafluoroethylene is hydrophobic as well as possessing a low coefficient of friction.
Another, Polydimethylsiloxane, is a viscoelastic silicon based polymer.

Don't skimp. You may never need to buy a second tube. :)
If you're not living life on the edge, you're taking up too much room!

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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by mr2_maverick » 17/09/17 15:10

peteV6R5 wrote:
16/09/17 23:54
mr2_maverick wrote:
16/09/17 17:13
MR2DI4 wrote:
16/09/17 16:53
The inside pad should always wear out first, in fact the inside pad is usually metal to metal and the outside pad is about 2/3 to 3/4 worn out, thats how I toasted my first set of rear rotors you look in there and there is "Plenty of pads" but you cannot see the inside pad as easily. It wears out first because its a smaller pad than the outside.

Any grease is better than no grease as long as its sliding.

Also check the handbrake cables are fully releasing. The cables cease solid when the inner cable breaks some strands and fish hooks the outer. There is near zero friction on a new set of cables and you will notice there should be a rubber gatter at the end of them that just perishes away and water and dust goues up the cable without it.

The rear brakes on the MK2 need a complete overhaul to get them working as they should for the next 15 years.
The inside of the disc is wearing out fine. My issue is on the same side of the disc, half the disc near the hub is not getting swept whereas the other half towards the edge of the disc is getting swept. So basically I seem to be getting half the contact.

How do I test if the handbrake brake is releasing properly? My handbrake works fine and there isn't any odd or uneven resistance when pulling or releasing it.
I think you have not located the pad spiggot into caliper piston, thus allowing the pad to rock slightly.

that is if I read it right. same side of disc but near hub is not swept, away from the hub and near the edge is swept (clean)
This is what I tried to check for, by spiggot do you mean the round taps/grooves on the non-friction side of the brake pads? The part of the caliper that squeezes onto the brake pad doesn't have any ridge to settle into the spiggot/groove i.e the surface is flat, the edges of the brake pad are set into the caliper bracket/torque plate correctly however.


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mr2_maverick
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by mr2_maverick » 17/09/17 15:19

TonyleFrog wrote:
17/09/17 1:11
mr2_maverick wrote:
16/09/17 14:25
I have copper grease with me at the moment, is it worth putting this on the pins or do I need to get brake/lithium grease?
See below
MR2DI4 wrote:
16/09/17 16:53
Any grease is better than no grease as long as its sliding.
Trite answer. ;)

OP, on no account use copper grease for the sliders. :no:
The indispensable tool of el-cheapo spanner monkeys .
It's one of the major contributing factors for the sliders becoming stuck in the first place.
http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/160721.html

This is the product mentioned by stuMR2lee in the above link.
It's formulated specifically for the job.
Image
You'll notice from the spec sheet that one of the ingredients is PTFE
Polytetrafluoroethylene is hydrophobic as well as possessing a low coefficient of friction.
Another, Polydimethylsiloxane, is a viscoelastic silicon based polymer.

Don't skimp. You may never need to buy a second tube. :)
I ended up not using copper grease and left what was already on it. This red grease/toyota grease only seems to be available on US ebay. Is there any supplier in the UK other than dealership?

I found pagid ceratec as an alternative, has anyone used it before on their slider pins?

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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by SonicSW20 » 17/09/17 20:14

Yep, you can buy it direct from Toyota... or via their official eBay store. PN will be different though as the tube I have is twice the size.
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artikfox66
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by artikfox66 » 03/04/20 15:09

None of this tells me how I change the pads, what do I undo or remove from where, I wish to know how to do it???

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jimi
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Re: Rear brake disc and pad change

Post by jimi » 03/04/20 20:57

This article is written for the MK1, the MK2 procedure is exactly the same https://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2.htm ... kbartid=84
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