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cjhunter2k wrote: ↑03/01/19 8:40
So the car has been covered for the last week or so now, there's no more signs of water in the footwell which is a positive, I can still hear something sloshing around behind the dash though. I'm thinking the next step is to remove the dash and take a look, does anyone have a good video link or diagram showing how to do this? i.e where all the screws/bolts/clips are? I know I need to remove the plastic trim pieces first and steering wheel, I assume the glove box needs to come off somehow as well?
before you dismantle your dash try bleeding your heater matrix...
Thanks peteV6R5, I know I'm showing myself up as a complete rookie but how do I bleed the heater matrix? Also what will this effect, I assume it controls the heaters in the car? My main concern is obviously to get rid of whatever water is in the dash but also to find and repair the fault to stop it happening again.
the sound of water is usually air circulating in the pipes or through the heater marix. the pipes run above the fuel tank in the tunnel.
KY2 is your friend https://www.mr2oc.co.uk/know-your-2/mk2 ... bartid=161
this one shows how to bleed after rad change.
not saying you dont have water trapped somewhere behind dash, just eliminate the easy options before dismantling dash as its a PITA
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When bleeding i would bleed whole cooling system, not only the heater matrix as everything is connected together so the air might be pushed around and be in different locations at any time.
The easiest way to bleed the cooling system for me is:
1) Remove the plastic trims from the front compartment to have easy access to rad and heater matrix bleeder which is just above the battery (rad bleeder is on top of the rad)
2) Jack the back of the car up (or even park on the hill facing down with the front of the car)
3) Remove dizzy cap, start the car and start with the lowest bleeding point
4) if there is air you will hear it or see the bubbles so let the water run from the bleeding point until constant stream
5) Once you've done the rad one go to heater matrix one
6)Put the dizzy back and take the car for a spin.
7) park it and wait until the engine cools down
8) when cold, top up the coolant and then after check it form time to time i.e in the mornings to check if the level is fine.
reversao wrote: ↑03/01/19 21:39
When bleeding i would bleed whole cooling system, not only the heater matrix as everything is connected together so the air might be pushed around and be in different locations at any time.
The easiest way to bleed the cooling system for me is:
1) Remove the plastic trims from the front compartment to have easy access to rad and heater matrix bleeder which is just above the battery (rad bleeder is on top of the rad)
2) Jack the back of the car up (or even park on the hill facing down with the front of the car)
3) Remove dizzy cap, start the car and start with the lowest bleeding point
4) if there is air you will hear it or see the bubbles so let the water run from the bleeding point until constant stream
5) Once you've done the rad one go to heater matrix one
6)Put the dizzy back and take the car for a spin.
7) park it and wait until the engine cools down
8) when cold, top up the coolant and then after check it form time to time i.e in the mornings to check if the level is fine.
I am assuming you mean filler cap!
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