Electrical issue (battery polarity swapped)

[adenbakker]

In a brief moment of extreme stupidity (I'll rerfrain from listing any excuses..) I reconnected my battery with the polarity switched . I noticed quite quickly (sparks when fastening the second cable) and disconnected the battery as fast as possible, but apparantly too late.... Now my MR2 (SW20 NA, Rev 1, 1991) will start and run without any problems (obviously with battery connected correctly), but I have lost power to the dashboard (dash lights, all dials), radio, blower. Also all lights have gone, except the hazard lights still operate and also the interior light (dome light) when doors are open. Also the battery warning light on the dash lights up when the contact is switched on - but does not go out when the engine is running.
I've checked all the (obvious) fuses in the (3) fuse boxes, except the high amp fuses in the frunk fusebox (AM2-40A, ALT-120A, ABS-0A, HTR-40A and AM1-50A), but visually these look OK.
Possiby there is a wire fuse somewhere in the wiring which has blown, but I can't trace these.
I would be grateful for any suggestions where to look and/or any other faults which may have occurred and are causing these effects.

Thanks,
Andrew

[adenbakker]

Anyone?

[peteV6R5]

In a brief moment of extreme stupidity (I'll rerfrain from listing any excuses..) I reconnected my battery with the polarity switched . I noticed quite quickly (sparks when fastening the second cable) and disconnected the battery as fast as possible, but apparantly too late.... Now my MR2 (SW20 NA, Rev 1, 1991) will start and run without any problems (obviously with battery connected correctly), but I have lost power to the dashboard (dash lights, all dials), radio, blower. Also all lights have gone, except the hazard lights still operate and also the interior light (dome light) when doors are open. Also the battery warning light on the dash lights up when the contact is switched on - but does not go out when the engine is running.
I've checked all the (obvious) fuses in the (3) fuse boxes, except the high amp fuses in the frunk fusebox (AM2-40A, ALT-120A, ABS-0A, HTR-40A and AM1-50A), but visually these look OK.
Possiby there is a wire fuse somewhere in the wiring which has blown, but I can't trace these.
I would be grateful for any suggestions where to look and/or any other faults which may have occurred and are causing these effects.

Thanks,
Andrew

fuse boxes, except the high amp fuses in the frunk fusebox (AM2-40A, ALT-120A, ABS-0A, HTR-40A and AM1-50A)
check these electrically with meter. if all other fuses are good. the main "censored" will be sound, that only leaves these or a wire.
the last thing to check is if the battery reads 12v with everything off and 14v with engine running. if no 14v with engine running could have screwed the alt board.

[adenbakker]

Problem solved yesterday: blown wire fuse behind dash. Simple fix (luckily), by someone with in depth knowledge of the electric. Good to know that there is a safeguard against idiots like myself!

[jimi]

Where is this fuse? I'm not aware of any fuses behind the dash.

[madbasshunter]

I think he means the fusible link Jimi a long way behind the dash by the battery

[jimi]

If the fusible link had blown, nothing would have worked

[madbasshunter]

good point Jimi I didn't read it all properly So now have no idea

[adenbakker]

I'll find out from my saviour and let you know.
Cheers,
Andrew

[xjairusx]

Did you find out? I think I shorted the main Black and Yellow Main Relay from point E17 to ground and now my dash only has a battery light on it... car still cranks but as its a project i'm trying to get running I can't say if anything else is working. I get no voltage or anything from the dash with ignition on. Just that red battery light on bright and the radiator fan is also on constantly with the ignition on.

[xjairusx]

Turns out this issue was AM1 50A fuse popped after shorting something through a dodgy toggle switch that was installed. Could do with sourcing a replacement though!