IDLE BOUNCING
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Many subjects will have been discussed before. Please try the search function before starting a new thread.
Check in the Know Your 2 as the information you need may already be there.
Important ! - Please make your topic title as descriptive as possible . titles with just "help" generally dont get as many answers as a title that points to the problem
-
Topic author
IDLE BOUNCING
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKuesPz ... e=youtu.be
Hello everyone,
I've a really nasty problem on my MR2 REV1 3SGE
Since I remounted the throttle body and changed my radiator, i've got a bouncing idle.
By my own research it can be the coolant not fully bleeded.
I've also heard about the ISCV ? BUT before i removed the coolant and the rocker cover, the idle was great. higher when cold and proportionaly decrease when warm.
I've shot a video just above, if anyone can give me an advise on where to work on ?
also i've see this post : mr2oc.com/60-normally-aspirated/190252-another-high-idle-thread-answers-not-questions.html
but I dont know if the bouncing thing is related to this..
Does the bleeding not really done ? I'm lost right now..
https://drive.google.com/open?id=16ZVNB ... KPN_1gV1AX
Also last thing to note is when I disconnected this pipe ( red elipse ) I feel a suction and when I place my hand to block it, the idle came back to normal ! In fact I feel it maybe a little high ( but i'm not really sure), but it dont bouncing anymore !!
drive.google.com/open?id=16ZVNBi-h3pBGWvVcvYX8cVKPN_1gV1AX
Any help will be greatly appreciated !
Thanks !
Hello everyone,
I've a really nasty problem on my MR2 REV1 3SGE
Since I remounted the throttle body and changed my radiator, i've got a bouncing idle.
By my own research it can be the coolant not fully bleeded.
I've also heard about the ISCV ? BUT before i removed the coolant and the rocker cover, the idle was great. higher when cold and proportionaly decrease when warm.
I've shot a video just above, if anyone can give me an advise on where to work on ?
also i've see this post : mr2oc.com/60-normally-aspirated/190252-another-high-idle-thread-answers-not-questions.html
but I dont know if the bouncing thing is related to this..
Does the bleeding not really done ? I'm lost right now..
https://drive.google.com/open?id=16ZVNB ... KPN_1gV1AX
Also last thing to note is when I disconnected this pipe ( red elipse ) I feel a suction and when I place my hand to block it, the idle came back to normal ! In fact I feel it maybe a little high ( but i'm not really sure), but it dont bouncing anymore !!
drive.google.com/open?id=16ZVNBi-h3pBGWvVcvYX8cVKPN_1gV1AX
Any help will be greatly appreciated !
Thanks !
-
Topic author
Re: IDLE BOUNCING
Others information I can give :
I removed the front air-conditioner radiator in front of the radiator but still there is the ac compressor in the back
Today I take the courage to remove the Throttle body itself completely to check everything I done
I checked the IACV valve (I guess it is iacv or iscv??) the yellow one fr underneath the Throttle body.
I managed to remove the 2 screw and the motor was rusted and blocked.. By using wd40, and a batterie I managed to test it.
First I blow air from my mouth to the tube below, air is coming thru meaning it is open
Then I connected middle pin to 12v and tested up pin, and blow no air passing! So the Iacv seemed to be working! I managed to de block it
So I was really happy and decided to mount everything back!
I started the engine and....
NOTHING has changed :'(
Even at cold or when I warm 10 min later nothing changed the idle was high and bouncy.....
Something I saw is the temp gauge in the dashboard never really got in the middle in fact it was a bit lower...
I tryed to make it Rev harder but without success... The temp not increased I believed even decreased...
Also its worth noting that when I tested the pin the ecu sent high voltage I think : 14 to 14.v volt is it not really high??
Also a video when warmed :
youtu.be/89I7qtxlp1o
Note that again the Rev is offset by like 800 rpm in fact it bounce between 1800 and 2000
I'm totally lost right now and angry at the same time..
[Crying or Very sad]
I removed the front air-conditioner radiator in front of the radiator but still there is the ac compressor in the back
Today I take the courage to remove the Throttle body itself completely to check everything I done
I checked the IACV valve (I guess it is iacv or iscv??) the yellow one fr underneath the Throttle body.
I managed to remove the 2 screw and the motor was rusted and blocked.. By using wd40, and a batterie I managed to test it.
First I blow air from my mouth to the tube below, air is coming thru meaning it is open
Then I connected middle pin to 12v and tested up pin, and blow no air passing! So the Iacv seemed to be working! I managed to de block it
So I was really happy and decided to mount everything back!
I started the engine and....
NOTHING has changed :'(
Even at cold or when I warm 10 min later nothing changed the idle was high and bouncy.....
Something I saw is the temp gauge in the dashboard never really got in the middle in fact it was a bit lower...
I tryed to make it Rev harder but without success... The temp not increased I believed even decreased...
Also its worth noting that when I tested the pin the ecu sent high voltage I think : 14 to 14.v volt is it not really high??
Also a video when warmed :
youtu.be/89I7qtxlp1o
Note that again the Rev is offset by like 800 rpm in fact it bounce between 1800 and 2000
I'm totally lost right now and angry at the same time..
[Crying or Very sad]
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- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20/08/09 11:38
- Years of MR2 Ownership: 11
- MR2's Owned: 1
- Gender: Male
- Location: Germany
Re: IDLE BOUNCING
Hi warsloop,
Fraid I don't really have any clues and I'm not familiar with sorting these kind of issues. But the fact that blocking of the pipe connected to the air intake fixed your problem sounds like you know the rough area to look in.
From the picture that pipe is connected before the throttle body right?
I had first wondered if it was vacuum related and your throttle body wasn't closing properly but maybe that has nothing to do with it.
The problem start only after you changed the radiator and refilled and bleed the system?
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Topic author
Re: IDLE BOUNCING
Hi gjones thx for your answer!
Yea in fact to resume what I done is I had changed the rocker cover so I needed to remove lot of things..
I was rigorous to take picture and all before removing to make sure everything is at the place.
So I changed the rocker cover gasket and the dizzy cap and the rotor arm.
After everything was done, I
I proceeded to do a coolant bleeding by removing the two bolt underneath the car in the two metallic tube and the radiator bleeding valve..
Then after 1 day I decided to fill up some coolant back! And I sa,'W that my radiator leaked... So I decided to remove it and installed a new one. As the car was lifted from front I will be able to change my radiator and hose without needing to remove the coolant! So I installed the new one but this one hasn't any air bleeding valve.. So I drop the car down and lifted the up and as the bgb described make the service hose on the heater, make full hot and ope. About 3 turn the screw etc.. But it's like 5 days that I try to bleed the system from air...
As the idle is bouncing its difficult to follow the bgb because when I turn the radiator cap 1 lock it somehow overflow...
So I manually squeeze hard the hose by hand both in the engine bay and in the front radiator and yes sometimes I heard some burp!
So my clue is there is air remaining in the radiator!
As I said ok if I block the pipe in the red eclipse it only stop bouncing!! But it doesn't drop the idle it's wayyyy to high!
Look a video when the engine is warmed up and I mean warmed up for like 15 min!
Just a question : can the coolant bleeding not properly done result in this particular situation?? That's here I'm confused because either it's really not likely as I think it will be more randomly? Here it is pretty deterministic and pretictable? Or yes it's a domino effect so somehow the ecu is not happy and never idle down?? And inject additional fueling??
Yea in fact to resume what I done is I had changed the rocker cover so I needed to remove lot of things..
I was rigorous to take picture and all before removing to make sure everything is at the place.
So I changed the rocker cover gasket and the dizzy cap and the rotor arm.
After everything was done, I
I proceeded to do a coolant bleeding by removing the two bolt underneath the car in the two metallic tube and the radiator bleeding valve..
Then after 1 day I decided to fill up some coolant back! And I sa,'W that my radiator leaked... So I decided to remove it and installed a new one. As the car was lifted from front I will be able to change my radiator and hose without needing to remove the coolant! So I installed the new one but this one hasn't any air bleeding valve.. So I drop the car down and lifted the up and as the bgb described make the service hose on the heater, make full hot and ope. About 3 turn the screw etc.. But it's like 5 days that I try to bleed the system from air...
As the idle is bouncing its difficult to follow the bgb because when I turn the radiator cap 1 lock it somehow overflow...
So I manually squeeze hard the hose by hand both in the engine bay and in the front radiator and yes sometimes I heard some burp!
So my clue is there is air remaining in the radiator!
As I said ok if I block the pipe in the red eclipse it only stop bouncing!! But it doesn't drop the idle it's wayyyy to high!
Look a video when the engine is warmed up and I mean warmed up for like 15 min!
Just a question : can the coolant bleeding not properly done result in this particular situation?? That's here I'm confused because either it's really not likely as I think it will be more randomly? Here it is pretty deterministic and pretictable? Or yes it's a domino effect so somehow the ecu is not happy and never idle down?? And inject additional fueling??
-
Topic author
Re: IDLE BOUNCING
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!
IT WAS THE THROTTLE. BODY GASKET !
mine was a ajusa "censored" one too much thin and I replaced with the original one and it worked like a charm!!!
Also fixed the actuator!! It was a vacuum pipe broken
drive.google.com/file/d/1O-tGnyIgnSz7QqhB5ivrw11ygPbbSCX2/view?usp=drivesdk
The idle never bounce again! It is high cold and slowly decrease to around 950 1000 rpm!! Im so so happy!!
Thanks all for your help and hope that will help other people!!
IT WAS THE THROTTLE. BODY GASKET !
mine was a ajusa "censored" one too much thin and I replaced with the original one and it worked like a charm!!!
Also fixed the actuator!! It was a vacuum pipe broken
drive.google.com/file/d/1O-tGnyIgnSz7QqhB5ivrw11ygPbbSCX2/view?usp=drivesdk
The idle never bounce again! It is high cold and slowly decrease to around 950 1000 rpm!! Im so so happy!!
Thanks all for your help and hope that will help other people!!
-
- Posts: 16
- Joined: 20/08/09 11:38
- Years of MR2 Ownership: 11
- MR2's Owned: 1
- Gender: Male
- Location: Germany
Re: IDLE BOUNCING
Fantastic, good one mate!warsloop wrote: ↑21/03/19 18:19 PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!
IT WAS THE THROTTLE. BODY GASKET !
mine was a ajusa "censored" one too much thin and I replaced with the original one and it worked like a charm!!!
Also fixed the actuator!! It was a vacuum pipe broken
drive.google.com/file/d/1O-tGnyIgnSz7QqhB5ivrw11ygPbbSCX2/view?usp=drivesdk
The idle never bounce again! It is high cold and slowly decrease to around 950 1000 rpm!! Im so so happy!!
Thanks all for your help and hope that will help other people!!
Glad you got it sorted!!