Tbar or Tintop?
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Many subjects will have been discussed before. Please try the search function before starting a new thread.
Check in the Know Your 2 as the information you need may already be there.
Important ! - Please make your topic title as descriptive as possible . titles with just "help" generally dont get as many answers as a title that points to the problem
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Topic author - Posts: 3
- Joined: 31/08/20 18:56
Tbar or Tintop?
Hi all I've had a couple of MR2s in the past, & wanted to get another for mainly track use. Fond memories , since then I've now got a 00 BMW 330i & 91 Ferrari 348ts, not really suitable for the track...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gxbnh8u2ks0du ... n.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/goi5sshdyuu9m ... n.jpg?dl=0
Does the tbar or tintop make much difference for rigidity & weight? I'm guessing going rev1 or onwards won't make much difference if the tyres, cooling/boost, suspension & brakes are being upgraded?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gxbnh8u2ks0du ... n.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/goi5sshdyuu9m ... n.jpg?dl=0
Does the tbar or tintop make much difference for rigidity & weight? I'm guessing going rev1 or onwards won't make much difference if the tyres, cooling/boost, suspension & brakes are being upgraded?
Re: Tbar or Tintop?
Bye and large, the T bar is heavier but does not feel less rigid. For the track the tintop is the more logical choice. Generally rev3 onward have a better suspension set up. (should be an interesting comparison with the 348)
Out of interest, do you mean competition or track days? N/A or turbo?
Out of interest, do you mean competition or track days? N/A or turbo?
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Re: Tbar or Tintop?
Given the rarity of the tin-top in the UK, it may easier (and cheaper) to settle for a moon roof or T-bar. There's very little difference between them other than a slight weight increase which could easily be negated by some weight loss measures.
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Topic author - Posts: 3
- Joined: 31/08/20 18:56
Re: Tbar or Tintop?
Just track days for now. I've got a sim racing club & it would be a great project car for real life.
Would be a turbo too. 300bhp is the limit for the fuel pump if I remember right for rev1 or 3? Has anyone done much weight reduction? Trying to think of cheap measures apart from wheels, seats & ditching AC.
From what I remember the acceleration is similar with the 348, obviously a different power delivery, though the 348 is a bit grippier on bends.
Would be a turbo too. 300bhp is the limit for the fuel pump if I remember right for rev1 or 3? Has anyone done much weight reduction? Trying to think of cheap measures apart from wheels, seats & ditching AC.
From what I remember the acceleration is similar with the 348, obviously a different power delivery, though the 348 is a bit grippier on bends.
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Re: Tbar or Tintop?
I seem to remember a thread somewhere on weight reduction on the MK2, can't find it at the mo, I did find this quote
EDIT
This may be it 125/153179.html?p=1608798#p1608798
If I find the thread I'll post a link.d-peg many times previously on the forum wrote:
Step 1 - bloody good service (to include; dizzy, rotor arm, leads, plugs, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, coolant. If needs be (every 60k) timing belt, water pump & oil pump)
Step 2 - brakes (to include; complete fluid change, new pads, new discs, braided hoses are a worthy upgrade too)
Step 3 - suspension refresher (to include; drop links, bushes (polybush kits are pretty good value) shocks and springs)
By this stage you'll have spent perhaps £500 - £1500 depending on what you've bought and if you've done the work yourself
Step 4 - a freebie - weight reduction. easiest way to make your car faster and handle better is ditch the excess. sound deadening, insulation, plastic liners, boot carpet, et al can all be slung (or put to one side) for free and can gain a 10% weight reduction fairly easily. a pair of MR2 seats are ~40kg!!! versus a single lightweight carbon/fg bucket at 4-5kg...
Step 5 - lightweight alloys - have you felt the weight of an MR2 alloy ... it's bloody heavy! Some nice, light alloys in 16" guise with some good quality rubber will reduce your unsprung mass and improve handling.
Step 6 - now you have an ultimate handling MR2 may be the time to start looking at power increases on the GE.... This is where the money will start coming in. It's in a fairly high state of tune anyway, power gains can be had but none of them cheap. Stroker kits, cams, vernier pulley, performance manifolds & exhausts are all available but cost plenty coin!
EDIT;
Let's say at present your car is a standard rev2 N/A T-Bar needing a service
145hp / 1300kg = 111bhp per tonne
Now refresh it all back to stock and shed some poundage....
158hp / 1150kg = 137 bhp per tonne
or a 23% power to weight ratio increase ... without trying to gain any power out of the engine.
[insert whistling smiley here]
EDIT
This may be it 125/153179.html?p=1608798#p1608798
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Topic author - Posts: 3
- Joined: 31/08/20 18:56
Re: Tbar or Tintop?
Thanks for sharing this, hoping I don't mess up taking out the sound deadening.
Has anyone used these tyres?
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/yokoham ... e-2007558/
Has anyone used these tyres?
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/yokoham ... e-2007558/
Re: Tbar or Tintop?
Had them on my compie Scimitar. Very good grip. It may not be relevant to you, but on MSUK list 1B, as a semi comp tyre.