MR2 Owners Club

MRHAPPY62 wrote: ↑09/06/17 19:16

jvanzyl wrote: ↑08/06/17 22:16

The Yokohama's are the AD08 one's. Most folk have them on the more performance orientated 2's.

Really ??????

Well it's just something I've noticed.. I currently run toyo proxes and suffer from the soft side wall when pushing hard...

Those that don't have the sidewall issue are generally running the Yoko's

Hi there,
No more updates regarding more mods to the car. I had to pump the tyres after leaving the car standing for a few weeks. That seems to have made a difference. My current project/mod is rebuilding a secondhand set of front wishbones. I have stripped them of original bushes and ball joint. No more than that. I seriously considering trying to get a half decent pump that will give me accurate pressure readings, any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'm running matching maxxis on the rear and matching Falkens on the front. Just thinking about the matching tyres all round, and was wondering if the rears are the same and the fronts are matching will that effect the handling?

dmbm525i wrote: ↑23/03/17 11:00 I am still thinking of changing the rear tie rods as they aren't too much cash and it is a relatively straight forward task. When I do this I will let you all know what if any difference this makes.

That's a good idea, I personally consider them to be 'consumables' that like tyres, exhaust, battery etc, should be replaced periodically to maintain a high and safe standard of handling.

Don't forget to get a four-wheel track set up done as recommended. This costs around £100 and really needs to be done by someone who knows what they're doing (read: not high street chains selling tyres/exhausts) using the right laser aligning equipment such as the Hunter kit.

In addition, your original question was about others experiencing torque oversteer and the method of correcting it, in this instance drop a line to the MR2ROC and ask the same question, it's highly likely that someone has had this happen to them.

What he said

Hi there,
Original poster here. I have just this very week end replaced the pillow ball / spherical ball joints that are situated in the hub. I bought the bushes off ebay many months ago, they are the ones that are for an Is200. I have taken the car for a spin and the feeling of torque steer has gone. I have one more bush to replace in the back. That is the rubber bush on the chassis end of the rod that connects to the pillow ball / spherical ball bush in the hub. After that it is the front end to do. I made a sleeve to press out the bush and it moved pretty easily. So if you are feeling wayward handling from the rear and the car is on the original bushes I would suggest changing them.

I should have added to the above post that I test drove the car yesterday after doing the job and all was good. When I drove it today is started to feel vaguely torque steery (excuse the made up word) again. I gave the bolts a tighten and again it removed the torque steer feel. This bush is definitely a big part of the handling of car. Just as a total aside to this post, I recently put new tyres on my BMW e39 with 18" staggered wheels and suspected bearing noise have disappeared. I had very cheap tyres on the front and it was those that were causing the noise. Just thought this might be useful info for some folk.

I have just finished polybushing all the main suspension bushes front and back (haven't done anti roll bar or drop link). I also just did some steering adjustment, not to bad a job just a case of trial and error. One complete turn of the steering arm moves the steering wheel approximately 8-10 degrees. Mine was only sightly to the left and a little over a quarter turn of the steering arms corrected it. I also check bolts were tight and to my dismay one on the front was loose. Tightened now and things are feeling good. It looks like not many are looking at this post but I will keep adding to it as I do stuff.