MR2 Owners Club • Hel brake lines
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Hel brake lines

Posted: 30/09/18 16:30
by andy2b
Bleeding my brake lines after rear caliper refurbs and it is taking an age so I'm just checking that I'm not drawing in air from anywhere.
I have replaced brake lines with Hel braided and I have noticed that although everything is tightened up that (see pic) the shaft B still turns inside fitting A. Should it do this, please say yes, as both brake lines do it.
I'm using a Sealey vacuum tester and bleeding kit for the first time so maybe their not that quick or I'm just to impatient!

Re: Hel brake lines

Posted: 30/09/18 17:39
by jimi
It's not clear from your pic what side is the hard line and what side is the hose, either way I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be turning.sounds like the 2 flares aren't mating properly.

Re: Hel brake lines

Posted: 30/09/18 18:51
by andy2b
This is the actual rear brake line, part A is fixed in place once everything is tightened up. It goes into and is part of the braided line. Part B is fixed to the braided hose and it all rotates around part A, but should it?
Both hoses are like this so I was unsure if this was part of the design. I thought it unlikely that a company as big as Hel could sell two faulty hoses in the same box given their quality checks.

Re: Hel brake lines

Posted: 30/09/18 21:33
by Snorkie
I'm not sure either, One way to test the joint would be to pump the brake pedal and see if fluid comes out the joint. If air can get in, then fluid under pressure will come out.

Vacuum bleeders are slow, you can pump the pedal while they are sucking, some times helps to get them going.


Check your bleed nipples are not blocked.

Re: Hel brake lines

Posted: 01/10/18 10:46
by andy2b
Thanks for the replies, haven't finished bleeding brakes yet, work got in the way, but no signs of any leaking.
Reread the Sealey manual and found I'm only using half the vacuum/suction that I should be using, could possibly be the reason its so slow :)

Re: Hel brake lines

Posted: 03/10/18 19:13
by m122794
Erm - what's that bit of tin doing over the original mount? My guess is that that's stopping the nut from fully tightening down onto the flare so you'll never get a seal