Knowledge Base - How To:- Fix T-bar Leaks (with pictures)
Thought I would share with you all my fix for the leaky T-Bars. It is well documented elsewhere but I thought I would take lots of pictures of the process step-by-step.
There are other fixes too like adjusting the window stop height, silicone spray (don't believe it's a permanent fix myself, more delaying another leak), eccentric rod guides (£££) and new seals (£££££££££).
First off, a little bit about the main leak points you'll get on an MR2.
Point A is the rear of the T-Bar which causes the bolster/shoulder shower.
Point B is the front of the T-Bar which causes the crotch/door handle shower.
Point C is on the A Pillar seal which causes the Motorway drip.
This is the front:
Pretty straight forward really, the water drains from the edge of the T-Bar or from the front outer edge of the T-Bar panel under the glass and collects here to be sent down the windscreen via the drain hole.
This is the rear:
2 drain holes this time. The upper drain hole tries to remove water collected under the rear of the T-Bar glass and is a small 'tunnel' that deposits the water at the bottom of the small plastic rear vent next to the rear quarter-glass. The other drain hole is a gulley that deposits any excess water and that from the edge of the T-Bar.
Causes of the Problems
The 'shoulder shower' is caused because the rear T-Bar seal does not make contact with the body seal, and lets water past. This could also be made worse with either of the rear drain holes blocked by dirt, grime or debris.
The 'crotch shower' is essentially the same.
The 'Motorway Drip' is caused by water collecting in the low pressure area behind the wing mirror. At speed, this water tries to rise up the door seal and can be forced through any gaps it finds.
First off you will need:
Loctite Superflex Black Silicone Sealant (Halfords £4.59)
Then remove the T-Bar and make sure it and all the seals on the panel are bone dry along with the door glass and the car seals.
Clingfilm the door glass to be on the safe side (essential for the 'motorway drip' fix though) and make sure the clingfilm extends beyond the rear side of the glass. Stick it down with tape to hold it in place.
Clingfilm Both the front and rear of the car seals:
Now we get to use the stinky stuff. This is the area we will be concentrating on applying to on the T-Bar panel. DO NOT place it further inwards of this area as you can effectively block the drain holes!
Ditch the white cap off the Sealant and just use the tube itself - you can use it to smooth out the sealant once it's on the panel. Depending on the severity of the leak apply the sealant. My crotch shower was horrendous on the V6 - after a downpour when I got in the car - as soon as I braked at the bottom of my cul-de-sac the water would run forward down the edge of the T-Bar panel and hey-ho my door handle is full of water and it looked like I just wet myself.
And rear with just a touch on as it was only a mere drip every now and again:
Clamp the panel back in and really put some pressure on it by standing on the still and pressing down. This will force the sealant out of the sides a little:
After 10-15 minutes (depending on ambient temperature) wipe any excess sealant from the seals:
Slam the door shut, lock the car and leave it either overnight, or in the summer a good 6-8 hours.
The Motorway drip is done in exactly the same way, only the sealant is applied to the door seal and is a little less attractive as you can see it if you are eagle eyed.
Enjoy a condensation free interior and no more explanations to your work colleagues/other halves why your back is wet through or you "just couldn't wait"
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Created : 2011-10-06 09:59:34, Last Modified : 2011-10-06 09:59:34