Knowledge Base - How To:- Replace the Front Brake Discs on a Mk2 Rev1 Turbo.
Many thanks to ROBLION for submitting this article
As Norm would say, "Before we start this project, always be sure to read, use and follow all of the safety instructions supplied with your power tools, and there is no better safety tip than to use eye protection."
Also, before starting any mechanical project, ensure that you have all the bits that you will need. With your car in bits, it may not be so easy to nip out and get them!
For this project you will need:-
Front Discs. Purchased from www.sapmotorparts.com at £18.30 + VAT each.
Front Pads. I used EBC Green Stuff purchased from www.fensport.co.uk at £42.00 + VAT.
A small amount of Lithium based grease, a small tube of Copper grease and WD40. These are available from your local car accessory store.
Cleaning cloths and kitchen roll. Courtesy of your Wife, Girlfriend or Partner.
100ml of Petrol or white spirit
A 2 metre length of String or Wire
Brake calliper paint. A 250ml tin is available from Halfords at Â£9.99
1 inch paint brush.
Ring / open metric spanners or sockets, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm
Torque wrench if possible
Small wire brush and old tooth brush
Before you start.
1. Ensure that the car is on a level surface and that the handbrake is fully applied.
Ok, now to start,
2. Loosen the front wheel nuts
3. Jack up the car from the central jacking point located in the centre of the front cross member.
4. Place axle stands under the support points on the front left and right sills.
5. Lower the car so that it now sits on the axle stands and not on the jack.
6. Remove wheel nuts
7. Remove front wheels
8. Now replace 2 wheel nuts so that there's about 5mm between the nut and the disc. This is so that when you come to remove the disc it can only move a little, rather than fall off and damage something.
9. Inspect around the brake calliper / pipe for leaks (often seen as a dark staining at the back of the calliper). If you do suspect any leaks, these MUST be fixed first and the system bled.
10. Now remove the cylinder from its holding plate/bracket by undoing the 2 sliding bolts, you may need to hold the bushes with a spanner when you do this to stop the bolt and bush from spinning ? be careful with these as you take them out.
11. Now slide off the brake cylinder and suspend it from the suspension spring with string or wire. DO NOT PULL OR STRAIN THE BRAKE HOSE.
12. Now remove the follow parts;
2 anti squeal springs, 2 brake pads, 4 anti squeal shims, 1 pad wear indicator plate and 2 pad support plates. Make a mental note as to what went where and how.
13. Now undo and remove the 2 bolts that hold the calliper bracket onto the hub, if they are stubborn use some WD40 and leave for 5 minutes to penetrate and try again.
14. OK, Now for the hard part. Time to remove the brake disc. First of all try and pull the disc loose from the hub?..if you're lucky it will come off (well as far as it can with the 2 wheel nuts still on).
15. If the disc didn't come off easily, it's time to use lots of WD40. Spray it between the wheel studs and disc and from behind the disc too.
16. Turn the disc round so that the fluid penetrates all the nooks and crannies and leave it for 5 minutes.
17. OK, now try to remove the disc again, if it doesn't come off easily, carefully use a hammer and hit the back of the disc where each wheel stud is (you will need to turn the disc to do each one of these several times).
18. If the disc still won't come off - repeat steps 15 to 17 again until it does. On my car it took several attempts to do this.
19. OK, now the disc is loose, remove the 2 wheel nuts and remove the disc
20. Time now to clean every thing - firstly using a small wire brush carefully remove any caked on brake dust from the cylinder (be very careful near the cylinder rubber boot - use an old toothbrush here) and from the sliding bracket.
21. Now, if the brake fluid reservoir level is at or above its max mark, carefully remove some otherwise the next step may cause it to overflow.
22. Using a piece is wood, push the calliper pistons back into the cylinder as far as they will go.
23. Poke a soft cloth or kitchen roll into the bush in the calliper where the sliding bracket slides and remove all the old grease and dirt. Be careful not to damage the rubber bush.
24. Clean the calliper and sliding bracket with a degreasing agent (i.e. engine cleaner, soapy water, etc) rinse with a little water and dry with kitchen roll.
25. Now if you want to you can paint the above with the brake calliper paint. Use a little at a time and you will need to do about 2 - 3 coats to look good. Make sure you read the instructions on the paint tin and follow the drying guide. Mine were touch dry after about 15 minutes for each coat.
DO NOT GET PAINT ON OR NEAR THE CALIPER PISTONS.
26. Now using a small wire brush and some WD40, clean the shims on both sides and the springs / clips removed in step 12.
27. Clean the wheel hub and studs with the small wire brush and ensure that it is clean. Any grit or dirt will not allow the new disc to lay flat and will cause the brakes to judder.
28. Now get your new disc and clean it with a clean soft cloth and either petrol or white spirit to remove the protecting grease from the disc surfaces.
IF YOU DON'T DO THIS YOUR BRAKES WILL NOT WORK!
29. Now remove any smears with a dry kitchen roll and without touching the disc with your fingers, fit the disc onto the hub.
30. Hold the disc in place with 2 or 3 wheel nuts done up finger tight.
31. If you have a run out gauge use it now to see if the discs are on square. I didn't have one so I used a brick on end on the floor placed nearly touching the disc and using a 10thou feeler gauge moved it until the brick was 10 thou away from the disc. I then turned the disc around to were each stud was and measured it was still 10 thou gap - any more or less would mean that the disc wasn't on square.
32. Time now to assemble the pads. Firstly, install the pad wear indicator onto the inside brake pad.
33. Apply the copper brake grease to both sides of the 2 inner shims. (The ones with slots in)
34. Install the 2 anti squeal shims onto each pad.
DO NOT GET ANY COPPER GREASE ON THE BRAKING SURFACE OF THE PADS!
35. Install inside pad with the pad wear indicator facing downwards.
36. Install outside pad.
37. Make sure the anti squeal shims are in place
38. Now bolt the Calliper bracket back onto the hub with its 2 bolts - tighten these very tight.
39. Now apply some Lithium grease to the inside of the rubber bushes on the calliper bracket.
40. Untie the calliper cylinder and fit it carefully over the pads.
41. Smear a little lithium grease over the 2 calliper bolts and fix the calliper back onto the bracket. Tighten these up well - You may need to use a spanner to stop the bush from turning as you do this as in step 10.
42. Now press the brake pedal 2 or 3 times so that the calliper adjusts its self and holds the disc.
43. Remove the wheel nuts and install the wheel and install and the wheel nuts hand tight.
44. Jack up the car a bit so that the axle stands can be removed and lower the car to the floor.
45. Tighten the wheel nuts now before you forget!
46. Top up the brake fluid if needed and ensure the cap is full on.
47. Take the car for a short drive gently testing the brakes. At first they won't seem very good as not all the brake pad will be touching the brake disc and there may be something still on the new discs - this will come off after a few miles of gently driving and braking.
Copyright © by MR2 Owners Club All Right Reserved.
Created : 2011-10-06 12:14:53, Last Modified : 2011-10-06 12:14:53