Problem after engine rebuild

[bounds_w]

Hi all

So recently had a problem with a mates mr2 and turned out he had low compression on cy4. This invoked ripping off the head to find scored bores in 3 out of 4 cylinders. You can see all the info that guys helped with here : http://www.mr2oc.co.uk/forums/41/156351.html

Remaining block and gearbox was dropped after sourcing a second hand block and the rebuild began.

Everything cleaned was first on the menu !

Then the head has been stripped completely and cleaned up, valaves reseated, new stem seals, reshimmed, and rebuilt. Block was cleaned and decked, and fotre engine flush poured into bores overnight to free up any muck in the piston rings. Then onto the New HG fitted with new bolts followed by new timing belt and idler + tensioner. Manifolds all back on with new gaskets, injectors in, throttle body, turbo back on, water pipes with complete new silicone hose kit for all the water system and new vacuum hose everywhere else. Stock boost controller has been deleted and aftermarket fitted. flywheel on, clutch on, gearbox back on, driveshafts back in. Lifted back into car and all connected up and looking good.

I cannot get the damn thing to run though ! She cranks and occasioanly fires a few times like its going to spring into life, but then just doesnt.

Now I know there is a million and 1 things that I could have done worng but just looking for some ideas.

The only think I dont have connected is the oil pressure sensor as i broke the tab off the damn thing. would this stop the car from idling ? does the ECU need this signal ?

IM pretty sure this is something silly as ive done engine strips before ok, but im having a mare now !

Hope someone has an idea

[_Al_]

First thing first: no, the engine does not need the oil pressure sensor connected.

Next - what revision is the car? Does it have an AFM?

Now the fun stuff.

Are you getting any error codes? If so, what are they? If not;

Are you getting a spark? If so, what colour and do you have a spark on all four? If not;

Are the Engine & gearbox earths connected? Is the rotor arm on the right way round (some cheap parts can be fitted either way)

Are you getting fuel? Can you hear the injectors click? Can you hear the fuel pump running? Can you smell fuel from the exhaust?

What lights are you getting on the dash?

[stuMR2lee]

+1 for all of the above. We had spark and fuel on a Rev2 Turbo that would crank and not start. Turned out to be a timing belt 7 teeth out. Once set up correctly it started immediately. Worth double checking the timing. Wish I knew more about engines.

[_Al_]

Wish I knew more about engines.

A-men to that brother!

[bounds_w]

First thing first: no, the engine does not need the oil pressure sensor connected.

Yay - worry about that later then !

Next - what revision is the car? Does it have an AFM?

Rev 1 turbo, Yes running AFM.

Now the fun stuff.
Are you getting any error codes? If so, what are they? If not;

Not checked yet. One error code I had before the rebuild was 52 I think - Knock sensor fault, but I have not checked since rebuild. Battery has gone flat due to cranking - now charging, so ill check the codes tomorrow.

Are you getting a spark? If so, what colour and do you have a spark on all four? If not;

Im going to remove each plug one by one tomorrow and check. I did check the coil before the strip and rebuild so im thinking that should still be ok. But Ill check again.

Are the Engine & gearbox earths connected? Is the rotor arm on the right way round (some cheap parts can be fitted either way)

All earths connected - I have double tripple checked this !
Funny you mention the rota arm. I started thinking to my self that I didnt check if I put the dizzy back intot he slot in the cam at 0 or 180. So I lined up the crank to TDC, removed the cam pully covers and both cams are at TDC too (so the the timing is still correct) and the dizzy has the arm at close to number 1 contact in the dizzy cap. Correct I think?! Dizzy rota defo on correct wirh little tab inside hole.

Are you getting fuel? Can you hear the injectors click? Can you hear the fuel pump running? Can you smell fuel from the exhaust?

Can smell fuel, but am goign to remove the fuel feed tomorrow and crank to docuble check. The injectors were cleaned and tested during the strip, so i know they work. I cant hear them click, but im going it on my own so its hard to turn the key and have my head close enough

What lights are you getting on the dash?

Normal lights + the engine bay heat light. But this is because the sensor fell down before and burned on the turbo so its knackerd, so im ignoring that.

WIll be testing all above tomorrow + compression test I think.

EDIT:Other info.

Car has tubular manifold, decat and aftermarket exhaust.

New actuator fitted as the old one was leaking (causing massive over boost which is why im doing this rebuild pretty much.

There was what I think is a cheap FCD spliced into the stock boost sensor plug which I have not wired back in yet.(shown on other thread) However, the 3 wires splice into 3 seperate wires so I dont THINK i need to have it fitted - although ill try and get this back in to be sure tomorrow.

All other things like lights etc are working normally.

thats all i can think of right now.

Thanks again.

[MRturboTom]

+1 for all of the above. We had spark and fuel on a Rev2 Turbo that would crank and not start. Turned out to be a timing belt 7 teeth out. Once set up correctly it started immediately. Worth double checking the timing. Wish I knew more about engines.

Also check ht leads in correct order.

Big leak between afm and tb possibly

[bounds_w]

+1 for all of the above. We had spark and fuel on a Rev2 Turbo that would crank and not start. Turned out to be a timing belt 7 teeth out. Once set up correctly it started immediately. Worth double checking the timing. Wish I knew more about engines.

Also check ht leads in correct order.

Big leak between afm and tb possibly

Cheers - They are magnicore and numbered, so im sure they are on correctly.

Dont think there is a leak, but obviously not 100%. I have no way to pressurise the system to see if there is a leak which is annoying !

[_Al_]

52 is knock sensor IIRC. Important, but the car will start without it.

I'd say that the codes are your number 1 priority. Everything else you've done sounds good.

I'd check the dizzy isn't 180 out, but I'm fairly sure that you can't actually put it in the wrong way. You certainly couldn't on my MX5 (took me 45minutes of hard labour before I figured that out though!!)

Also, stupid little things you can check now:

All relays in tight? All fuses in tight? Any blown? Particular attention to the engine bay box.

Is the igniter plugged in properly? I've seen the tabs break, when that happens it's almost impossible to get a good connection (vital for it to work).

Is the AFM connector tight?

REALLY stupid one - is the oil filler cap on? Is the dipstick sealed? Rev 1 & 2 can be very sensitive to that sort of thing (again, muggins here learned that one the hard way!)

I'd also try and start it, then check the timing if it goes, with the ECU terminals bridged (TE1 and E1) just to be on the safe side.

[MRturboTom]

Where are you located?
Remove air filter and crank the engine and look at the afm, check the flap is flapping ok

If cam timing is ok, it'll start wherever the distributor is positioned.

[_Al_]

If cam timing is ok, it'll start wherever the distributor is positioned.

My red rev 2 wouldn't Tom... Admittedly that was a very sick car though...

[MRturboTom]

If cam timing is ok, it'll start wherever the distributor is positioned.

My red rev 2 wouldn't Tom... Admittedly that was a very sick car though...

Must of been. Should run on full advanced or fully retarded.

Just rebuilt mine and left the dizzy loose and started spot on. After I plugged the dizzy back in anyway

[bounds_w]

To _al_

Im pretty sure 52 is knock. Before the rebuild we had this fault but didnt worry about it as we knew there were bigger things to fix first. I got a second knock sensor on the second hand block we aquired, and also ordered one of these GM sesnors with the adapter kit from the states, so I have 3 to try now. All the knock sensor wiring has been tested for continuality and for any failure accross to the shield too with a multi meter, so i think the wire is good. However not worring about that yet

Ill check codes again tomorrow after work.

Im now sure the dizzy is ok. the rota is at lead 1 at TDC

Had a quick look at the fuse box in the engine bay and all the blades are defo ok. I had the fuel pump fuse out for a few cranks to get some oil flowing before i put it back to try and fire it up. Not that I needed to by the look of it

where is the ignitor, I have not looked at this ! It was running (just) before, so i dont see why this would be gone, but maybe. Ill know more I guess after I try getting the plugs out one by one tomorrow.

Oil cap on, and dip stick in

what does the TE1 and E1 bridge do ?

to mr2turbotom

Im in Northampton mate.

Will check the AFM, but it was flapping before. Is that how the AFM works ? by how open the flap is ? does it not have a hot wire setup ?

the old engine ran at all dizzy timing places, full ret or full adv. I have tried it in about 10 locations one by one. Its a pain on you own !! haha


Cheers for your help fellas. Best part is, this aint even my car ! But its on my drive !

[_Al_]

The igniter is on the same bracket as the coil, it's a five wire connector if memory serves. It'd be quite easy to disturb when you were changing the coil. If you have a good spark then it's probably working and it'd be worth checking other things first.

Let us know how you get on tomorrow..

[Chris_D]

LInking E1 & TE1 locks ignition timing to 10 degrees before, so you then set with a strobe at 10 degrees. Check the dash light is flashing (error codes or steady) to verify the link is correct.

If you have goos sparks at the plugs, it may be worth removing the chargecooler and chucking a capful of petrol direct into the intake and try starting with throttle half open (obvious fire precautions). If it fires for a second or 2 then you're looking for a fuel problem. (fuel pump, injector, big air leak, faulty AFM).

Have you double checked the ECU earth under the inlet manifold ? - often forgotten.

If you have a good spark, then igniter & coil should be ok.