Problem after engine rebuild

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bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

ok cool - once I get it running ill remember to set the timing with the system locked.

If the ECU earth is the smaller one that goes under the manifold then yes its on.

Ok, going to do the basic air, fuel, spark, and compression tests tomorrow then read for any codes with the paper clip trick. I don't see compression being an issue as its a new build. If it is, ill cry :crybaby:

Also remembered two other little bits of info. where the big trunk of wires comes down from the engine bay fuse box to split off across to the different directions of the engine, there is a small 3 pin grey triangle plug coming out about where all the branches split off and it not connected. The wire is only like 1" long, so something must come to it rather then it to anything if that makes sense.

Also - around where the coil, and fuse box and stuff is in the engine bay there is a small white box connected to the wiring that looks like it has a tab on it to be connected to earth. its like a small match box in size - what is this ? is this the ignitor ? I remember its just hanging, and not attached (earthed maybe). will also look at this later !

Thanks again fellas. will report back later.
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bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

only 1 error code stored

12 - RPM No "G" signal to ECU for 2 sec after crank Starting related, check distributor, starter

Dizzy im sure cant be wrong, but the starter - maybe, as my mate took this side appart so I have no mental map. Ive connected 1 feed wire from battery to big terminal, then another smaller ring ended wire to this terminal, then the small solenoid wire to the brown plug. Question, do both these larger wires go here ?
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Topic author
bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

Image

ok, so the photo above shows the white box i was talking about. It looks like it should just be connected to the body of the car to be earted ? what is it ?

Also, you can see the plug in the background that is not connected ? what is and where does that go ?

Image

the above shows the starter motor. The thick wire with black tape is the main + wire connected to the main feed on the starter. Then there is a pair of wires coming from the right in that black ribbed shield, one of the smaller ones loops round and plugs into the starter, and the other is connected up ontop of the main + wire to the main feed ? correct I think ? can you confirm?
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Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by jimi »

bounds_w wrote:only 1 error code stored

12 - RPM No "G" signal to ECU for 2 sec after crank Starting related, check distributor, starter

Dizzy im sure cant be wrong, but the starter - maybe, as my mate took this side appart so I have no mental map. Ive connected 1 feed wire from battery to big terminal, then another smaller ring ended wire to this terminal, then the small solenoid wire to the brown plug. Question, do both these larger wires go here ?
What makes you so sure it can't be the distributor ?
Code 12
System - RPM Signal
Diagnosis - No "NE" or "G" signal to the ECU within 2 seconds after then engine has been cranked
Trouble Area - Distributor Circuit, Distributor, Starter signal, ECU
If the engine is cranking over then it isn't the starter, it's almost certainly something to do with the Distributor / Distributor wiring, ignitor/coil and wiring
What code 12 is saying is the engine has been cranked but the ECU hasn't got a signal from the distributor this could be lack of power to the circuits or faulty wiring/components. Given the engine was running until you stripped it quite possibly something you have done ie, something either isn't connected, is connected but not properly or is connected wrongly. Sounds very much like your not getting a spark at the plugs ?
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bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

Sorry - rushed post. What I mean is im sure the dizzy arm and timing etc is all correct. At one point i thought I had the dizzy was in the slot in the cam at 180 deg no 0, but now im sure its not.

BUT - it might be the big fat plug that connects to the base of the dizzy at about 4 oclock ish. I take it that is the cam angle sensor and / or the RPM sensor. Its plugged in, but VERY wobbly. so might be broken.

Howevrer, I have reconnected the FCD, and pulled the RPM sesor plug around a bit, and its started !!! :yahoo:

Now its not smooth running, but ive moved the dizzy around to what is the best I can get it, and it ticks over and revs.

Problems now.

I have 3 error codes recorded.
12 - RPM signal
43 - Starter SIgnal
52 - Knock sensor

So for error 12 I might end up using the other dizzy I got with the new block/head we brough.

For error 43 - no idea ! could this be the dizzy sensor too ?

52 - I have 2 other knocks to try

There is also one other issue that might be to do with the engine signal not working. if you rev the car hard, at about 4-5k the starter pops back out and whines like a biatch. key off and back on, and it goes away - wierd !

But a mile stone as its running ! happy chappie for that :D

Cheers for ideas and advice so far chaps !!
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Topic author
bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

OK, reset the ECU.

Throwing codes 52 and 43 still. Got another knock to try for the 52. Any ideas for the 43 ?

Also - didnt get the starter motor issue just now. weird !
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Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by _Al_ »

the internet wrote:10 43 Starter signal (no "sta" signal to ecu until engine speed exceeds 800rpm): vehicle is push started; ignition switch/circuit; ECU. Not a real problem unless it recurs.

I'm not sure I agree with the....

"Not a real problem unless it recurs."

...part.

The wire from the back of the key which triggers the whole starting process is called STA so I doubt the quotation marks above are a coincidence. If I was you I'd be checking the wiring run and checking continuity end to end.
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bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

Ok - so ive fixed the 52 error. The plug was on the knock sensor, but the cable was not seated properly in the plug, so the actual cable was not plugged in. sorted that ! :D

Reset the ECU - and now I have no error codes :D

Ive done a compression test on a warmed up engine and got matching pressures across the board so im happy with that :D

Last problem(s):

I need new HT leads as two look FUBAR and one is not firing properly unless I fiddle with it all the time - where is the best price to buy ? currently have blue magnicores, but they dont have to be these again. (want cheap after all this money spent)

Passenger side rear "wishbone" from ball joint to subframe - the subframe end WILL NOT go back in. the thread dont look great which is nice. Any ideas where I can source one of these bolts ?

EDIT : Just want to say a big thanks to all the experts on here who have replied to this thread and helped my out. It would have taken me longer without the ideas and knowledge from you chaps. :clapping: :notworthy:
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Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by stuMR2lee »

Well done. Sounds like you are making progress. Toyota oem HT leads ideally but the NGK leads from GTSChris get good reviews. I've had those cheap ones off eBay before - not very good quality.

Bolt shouldn't be too expensive from Toyota.

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Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by Chris_D »

Tcb is a good source. Www.tcbparts.co.UK
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bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

Right guys - were moving closer ! :laughing

New plugs and leads ffrom GTSChris via ebay - Car is puuuuurrrring now ! running sweeter than it ever have - pretty happy with the way its running ! :D

Got a new bolt from Toyota - £8 !! Still wont go in. so i got the thread measured and its m14x1.5. Borrowed a tap from my Dads work, and cleaned out the thread and happy days its all gone back in. so the "wishbone" part is back on !

Last problems. I snapped the water system overflow pipe next to the pressure cap, so i need a new bit there. Have one on the way from ebay for £5.

Clutch - how the hell do I get this to work !!! Becuase the slave was disconnected from the system and dropped out with the engine, the system has dripped dry. So I have it all connected back up, and have the nipple open with the silicone hose style bleeder. I have been pumping the clutch pedal (by hand as the pedal stays down) and filing the reservior for about 1500 pumps of the pedal, and Then I lock off the nipple, and pump, but I still get no pressure !! Help. what am i doing wrong !?

thanks in advance guys ! Im so close now !
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Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by _Al_ »

Clutch is easiest as a two man job but I understand it's a nightmare even then.

Will see if I can dig out a guide...
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bounds_w

Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by bounds_w »

Just been reading this. I have not been doing the slave bleed by compressing the piston. will try this method tomorrow.

http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/mk3- ... he-clutch/
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Re: Problem after engine rebuild

Post by jimi »

bounds_w wrote:Just been reading this. I have not been doing the slave bleed by compressing the piston. will try this method tomorrow.

http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/mk3- ... he-clutch/
That's referring to a MK3 using a power bleeder, I've never done that when bleeding a clutch.

This is what I do (needs 2 people)
1. Fit piece of tubing on the bleed nipple and put the end in a container
2. Slacken bleed nipple, slowly press the pedal fully down and hold it.
3. Tighten the nipple and release the pedal
Repeat the above until you get clear fluid, with no bubbles coming out of the bleed nipple.
Remember to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up with fluid

Just opening the nipple and pumping the pedal won't work on a clutch ;)
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