Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
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Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Just thought I would make a post incase it comes in handy for some one.
I am stripping down a full set or brakes for powder coating and rebuilding. So thought I’d share the process.
So start with the rear rev2 onwards calliper, stamped 22v. The earlier rev 1 was stamped 16v. First thing is clamp it in a vice and remove the slider pin and rubber boot This is simply done by pressing the slider through the boot and then using a pick tool or screwdriver push the rubber boot out.
Next up unwind the piston. Yes the rears are threaded unlike the fronts. The majority are all righthand threads but I have seen some left hand threads. So just check which way the piston moves when turning it anti-clockwise. Normal right hand with move the piston out and left hand will move the piston in.
This is done easiest by using a piston winding tool or some mole grips if you are stuck. But the winding tool kit is only a few quid and worth having. Once the piston is fully out. Just gently wiggle it side to side and pull it clean out. If you turn it over you will see the female thread inside the piston. Also you will see the sorry state this calliper is in Next up is to remove the handbrake lever spring and retaining nut.
Use a good pair of pliers to grip and twist the spring back around the stop post and the spring will be free.
To be continued
I am stripping down a full set or brakes for powder coating and rebuilding. So thought I’d share the process.
So start with the rear rev2 onwards calliper, stamped 22v. The earlier rev 1 was stamped 16v. First thing is clamp it in a vice and remove the slider pin and rubber boot This is simply done by pressing the slider through the boot and then using a pick tool or screwdriver push the rubber boot out.
Next up unwind the piston. Yes the rears are threaded unlike the fronts. The majority are all righthand threads but I have seen some left hand threads. So just check which way the piston moves when turning it anti-clockwise. Normal right hand with move the piston out and left hand will move the piston in.
This is done easiest by using a piston winding tool or some mole grips if you are stuck. But the winding tool kit is only a few quid and worth having. Once the piston is fully out. Just gently wiggle it side to side and pull it clean out. If you turn it over you will see the female thread inside the piston. Also you will see the sorry state this calliper is in Next up is to remove the handbrake lever spring and retaining nut.
Use a good pair of pliers to grip and twist the spring back around the stop post and the spring will be free.
To be continued
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Great stuff, once your done I'll add it to KY2 be good to have MK2 specific article
Looks very similar to the MK1 rear caliper, there's a KY2 article on stripping them down.
![thumbup :th:](/forums/images/smilies/thumbup1.gif)
Looks very similar to the MK1 rear caliper, there's a KY2 article on stripping them down.
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Love this. Never opened a caliper before but considering it as a learning showing next time one needs doing
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Topic author - Posts: 131
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Continued…
With the spring removed use a 17mm socket and impact gun to undo the lever nut. Or a ratchet if you don’t have one. Now we can go back to the bore of the calliper. You need to remove the piston boot and retaining ring. A pick or screwdriver is the easiest way to prise it out. Then the boot or whats let will peel away Now the piston seal needs to come out next as show here Again this will come out with a pick or screwdriver Next up is to remove the threaded rod that the handbrake uses to engage the piston I will continue shortly
With the spring removed use a 17mm socket and impact gun to undo the lever nut. Or a ratchet if you don’t have one. Now we can go back to the bore of the calliper. You need to remove the piston boot and retaining ring. A pick or screwdriver is the easiest way to prise it out. Then the boot or whats let will peel away Now the piston seal needs to come out next as show here Again this will come out with a pick or screwdriver Next up is to remove the threaded rod that the handbrake uses to engage the piston I will continue shortly
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
If you look inside the bore you see an internal circlip this hard to show in a picture but you will see it.
Using a pair of straight circlip pliers remove this clip Next up using some long nose pliers grip and pull out the retaining cage and spring With this removed you can very carefully grip the threaded rod with some pliers and pull it up and out. There is only an oRing securing it in place. Be careful not to damage the thread or lose the washers that are on the rod Then the last piece from the bore is to remove the small dowel pin Here is a picture of the rod with the washers in order and dowel pin To be continued
Using a pair of straight circlip pliers remove this clip Next up using some long nose pliers grip and pull out the retaining cage and spring With this removed you can very carefully grip the threaded rod with some pliers and pull it up and out. There is only an oRing securing it in place. Be careful not to damage the thread or lose the washers that are on the rod Then the last piece from the bore is to remove the small dowel pin Here is a picture of the rod with the washers in order and dowel pin To be continued
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Next flip the calliper over and pull the handbrake lever out. Making sure to rotate the lever to clear the stop tab.
Now with lever out you can remove the rubber boot. This is done by tapping it out with a chisel or a screwdriver that you don’t like.
Look inside at the roller bearing and you will see it is missing a lot of needles. It is designed like this so that the dowel pin can pass through and rotate the threaded rod when the handbrake is applied. When the rod rotates it pushes the piston forward
Back to the lever. Place it in the vice loosely. Then using a cooper mallet gently tap the lever pin out of the lever handle. You can also put the nut on a few threads to help protect the threads.
Then last bit is to remove the end cap for the carrier slider rod and the rubber boot on the opposite side. I didn’t have one on this calliper but you should know what I mean.
Continued over leaf-
Topic author - Posts: 131
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Here is the cap removed
Also here is a picture of everything in order from right to left. This was from the other side calliper. But the order is still the same. Once I get my callipers and carriers back I will add the rebuild.
Then as usual clean everything up taking care that the seal grooves are clean. Using a bit of emery cloth clean the piston. Unless you are getting new ones in the rebuild kit.
A wire wheel on a drill helps remove a lot of the debris from around the bore and where the piston boot retaining ring sits
Thats it a fully stripped rear calliper. I am sending mine to be powder coated before the rebuild but as usual. To rebuild just do the reverse of the strip. But remember to change the Oring on the threaded rod. Also here is a picture of everything in order from right to left. This was from the other side calliper. But the order is still the same. Once I get my callipers and carriers back I will add the rebuild.
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Re: Mk2 Rear brake calliper full strip down
Fantastic - thanks for this! Like a cheat code for car maintenance.. This is also a great excuse to buy more tools.. ![biggrin :D](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![biggrin :D](/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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